Later Thursday PM

Mom feeling much better about 15:00 so it is time to get back on the move again. Down to the closest (smack dab right next to the hotel) Brasserie for a lunch and soda. New order of the day is move slow and not far. After "lunch" time for a short bus ride to Notre Dame. Made it there fine, after a short walk form the #24 bus stop.Got inside, rented an audio guide and asked for Le Toilets. Told they are outside under the statue of what's his name (maybe more on this [Charlemagne] later if I feel like it). More very un-welcomed walking, especially up and down steps. Back to retrieve our audio tour device and a slow walk around the cathedral. Many, many wonderful sights, especially when you remember the history of this building. Very awe inspiring. I'll let mom go on more from her memories of the audio tour. As mom naps, I post. Off soon to get her up for supper, so this is the last post from here. I will get home and update a lot of it, hopefully including her notes, lots more photos and links. More as I get time. See you all tomorrow night.

Thursday PM, repeat after me

False alarm, 80 Euros (20 per night) for room "upgrade" to what Expedia originally promised me. You know, the room WITHOUT the mold in the bathroom ceiling. Thursday PM repeat after me, "NEVER make phone calls from your room, NEVER make phone calls from you room". Trying to determine how many Euros I need, I asked at the front desk what our final bill would be. I was glad, at first, to hear that the only thing we owed for was phone calls. Clerk said that Expedia took care of the rest. (It will be interesting to see what that means later). On my way out later I asked how much those phone calls would be and told 60E !. Off to find a ATM, found it on the corner, walked back to the restaurant we have been trying to eat at all week and made reservations (they don't really take them but they humored me) for 21:00. Also made sure that they took charge cards, they did. Walked down that street Rue Buffon to get back near the ATM. oops...this is a long street that comes out no place near Blvd de l' Hopital. Ended up on a walk that I probably could have used anyway. Found Blvd Saint-Marcel and eventually Blvd de l' Hopital, cash machine and back to the room. Mom feeling much better, but rest is still the order of the day. Deliberately keeping you in suspense here.

Thursday AM

Thursday AM, the week is catching up. Even though Mom was up and showered by 08:15, she soon felt the results of the week. She decided that she really needed to rest and nap for the morning, we'll see how she feels this afternoon and try to clean up what else there is to see. I too was dragging and only with a bit of effort did I get up @ 08:25. Dragged myself into the shower and got ready. Notre Dame is a must, Arch de Triumph or Saint Chapelle would be nice. I am going to make reservations at the little restaurant around the corner for tonight. Not to worry, as later posts will reveal, Mom is fine, just tired from the last 4 days.

Wednesday and that tall steel thing

Wednesday PM we arrived back in Paris by 14:00 and began to look for a bank to exchange some $$ for Euros. Walked into one place and after standing in line realized it was unlikely a place to exchange money. Some girl was at the reception desk wailing about a credit card bill. We began the process of trying to find the connecting buses that would take us to the Eiffel Tower. Asked our faithful #24 bus driver for suggestions and he pointed up another street. Walked over and ran to all the bus stops to figure out what bus would take us where. Found the #80 came close to the Eiffel Tower, so we hopped on, when it eventually came along. Took the bus as close to Eiffel as we could and got off and took a taxi the last dozen blocks. Te meter read 4E10, but we had to pay the 5.10E minimum. Walked to the north pylon entrance and got in line @ the 30 minutes out point. Moved quickly, got out tickets to the top 11.5 E ea. Funicular up to the first level and a quick change over to an elevator to the second level. Spent some time here, looking around, having pizza and sandwich (no free hot water here 2.30 E). Then on to the elevator to the le Summit. Fast ride up the narrow middle of the tower puts you on an enclosed observation deck with a magnificent view of Paris. Sacre Coeur really stood out. The day was very clear and you could see everything.I pointed all the places we had been out to mom and took lots of pictures. I asked mom if she wanted to go out to the open balcony 1 story up but she wanted no part of it. I never knew she had such a fear of heights. I took a quick run up while mom waited. Got down the elevator and mom mentally kissed the ground. While she had a seat I ran around looking for bus and connection opportunities to get us back to the hotel. A little running found a bus that would get us close to a bus that would get us to the bus that goes to our hotel. Collected mom, took her to the bus stop and waited. The #83 got us past Invalides, the Luxembourg jardins and to St Michel. A 1 block walk got us to the #38 which at the second stop (had to stand the whole way) got us within 1 block of the #63 which gets us back to the hotel.

Wednesday AM, Giverny at last

Wednesday AM. Giverny day at last. Up early, had my alarm set for 06:15. into the shower, getting dressed and mom observes that it is 07:05! Darn Palm Pilot POS lost more than a half hour not being synced up to the phone network. Time to hurry to get to our 08:15 train. Down to the #24 bus, off to Gare St Lazare. Made it to the station in time to get the tickets, buy a cup of coffee and OJ and a couple of apple custard torts. Onto the train where we ate on the way. Pretty cool morning so glad we bundled up and carried extra sweater in backpack. Nice 45 min.ride to Veron w/ only 1 stop, the difference between the 08:15 and the 09:00, which takes about 1 hr 45 min. @ Giverny the bus is 1/2 block from the train station. About a 30 minute bus ride through the french countryside takes you to the parking area, across the road from the town. A walk under the road leads to another parking area and the first opportunity to9 spend you money on a little guide book w/ a map and small explanation of the features of the town. Of course we fall for it. A short walk dow the street to the Maison et jardins Claude Monet. We borrowed another wheel chair and began the tour of the gardens. They are so much nicer than when I last saw them in April of '04. Lots and lots of beautiful blooms, many rather unique. We got a short cut back across the road to the water lily gardens and bridges. We walked every square inch, taking many pictures. Great bamboo garden on an island in the stream. One way to contain the bamboo. The little boat in so many of Moet's paintings was there, being used by a gardener to scoop out weeds from the ponds. After we thoroughly covered the ponds, lily pads, streams etc, we went back across the road via the special gate to the house side. Back up the hill to the house for the tour. You enter and go left, down a few steps into the studio/sitting area. Lots of original furniture, reproductions of many of the paintings done in the area and photographs of Claude, his family and visitors. Then upstairs to the bedrooms and dressing rooms. Downstairs to the kitchen. Japanese prints everywhere. After a tour of the gift shop we were ready for the return bus/train. It was either leave now and get back to Paris by 14:00 or wait and not get back till 16:00. We wanted to get one more visit in Paris in today.

Tuesday PM

Tuesday PM, we continued on the 5th floor, taking in many of the similar works. Guess who's mother showed up! Lots and lots of Impressionist and post Impressionist works. Navigated the labyrinth of lifts and elevators to work our way down to the second floor. We whizzed by the Objects de Art, sculptures etc,., to get right back to the paintings, many of these form the Symbolist's. Getting late as we take all of these in and need to get down the the bottom floor where there are a lot more paintings we want to see. More long wheels to find the right connection elevators. Pushed the limits of the closing time of the museum scurrying from room to room to see the best of the Impressionists, Monet, Manet, Sisely, Pissaro, and the rest. Speaking for rest, time for a trip back to the hotel. Since we needed the 24 bus to get back, and it let us off right across the street from the museum, we got back on it. Didn't matter that it was going in the opposite direction from the hotel, we were confident that we would end up back at the hotel after it finished the loop. On the way back, the #24 passes within a block of Notre Dame. We decided to get off and walk the block. Too bad we did not know that Notre Dame closed at 18:45 and it was 18:55. Back to the bus, looking in a couple of souvenir shops @ the bus stop. Of course we purchase something only to go next store to find it a nearly half the price. Back to the hotel for a rest, while I tried to make reservations at that restaurant around the corner. Someone was inside and opened up for me, only to tell me that Reservations Tuesday and Wednesday nights meant minimum parties of 5!. Back to square 1. I walked all around to try to find a nice restaurant. Found a couple possibilities, but not what I was looking for. Back to the room and time to look up some restaurants in the area from m notes and the books. Found 3 that I though we might be able to get to. Called one, they don't take reservations (works cooperative, nice food large portions) so I thought that would be a good one. The book suggested a couple of others if that one was crowded, so I called one to see if we could get a reservation. Not tonight. OK, to the cooperative. Next step was to get a taxi. The desk clerk told us it would be faster if we went to the train stations across the street. Walked over but the line waiting for a taxi put us off so back to the hotel to ask the clerk to call for one for us. He tried 3 numbers and none were available. Plan C, walked up the street to the 2 bast possibilities. looked at the 2 menus, with the second one undoable because of the cigarette smoke waifing throughout the place. back the the first. This happened to be a store-front that the proprietor had turned into a restaurant. It looked like a former butcher shop or deli, with a counter and display cases, tables taking up the rest of the space. We sat in front of the display case and he explained what all the dishes were. Mom had beef cannoli and I had salmon lasagna. Wandered back to the hotel for a sort of early bed time.

Tuesday AM

Tuesday AM, after a false alarm, previously set to get us to Giverny we got up and did the routine by 8:30. Off to Muse de Orsey, and in the museum by 9:30. Started at the top as suggested and worked our way down. But I believe that a lot of other people read that same book as the top floor was quite crowded. Wait a minute, what was that other part...Oh yeah, never go here on a Tuesday because the Louvre is closed and everyone ends up @ Muse de Orsey....doogh. Toured half the top floor, lots of great works including dark rooms full of Pastels. Lots of works by Cezanne, Monet, Manet, Degas, Pissaro, Rubin, Rodin, Gauguin and others. Stopped for lunch about 13:00, on the 5th floor cafe. Pictures later.

More on Monday PM

Monday PM, lunch in the Cafe Marley in the Louvre. Some nice sandwiches and tea (decaff teabags out of mom's purse into a free cup of boiling water) .Back down to the basement visitors center to get across to the Richelieu wing for a short visit to the apartments of Napoleon. They were occupied by the Ministry of Finance till 1989 when they were turned over to the Louvre. Sumptuous, does not begin to describe them. They certainly knew how to party. worked our way through the labyrinth of lifts and elevators to the 17th, 18th, and 19th century French painters. Not as grand in size, but certainly as grand in every other way. Stayed to closing and beyond, trying to find the way back out with the wheelchair. They would not let mom ride up the elevator so it was up the escalators to the pyramid. Walk over to the 95 bus stop to St. Germains des Preis. Had to look around for the #63 bus back to the hotel. Now about 19:30, need to figure where to eat, not a lot of choices beyond Brasseries by the hotel, the 1 nice restaurant around the corner closed Mondays, reservations Tuesday & Wednesday. Back to the room for a rest, tea and other beverages while I went looking at the menus at the local places. Found most were open till 22:30 or 23:00. After letting mom nap got her out to a Brasserie 3 doors down from the hotel for a local dish of salad w/ chicken for mom and I had a tough little steak (probably why they cook everything so rare). Off to bed

More on Monday AM

Monday AM, our body clocks were a little improved. Got up about 8:00, had what was becoming our break fast, coffee, OJ & croissant. Prediction of poor weather made us choose an indoor activity, Le Louvre. Got there via bus 24 to bus 95, both very familiar. 95 drops you off right in front of the Pyramid, but not as much help as it seems as we need to enter through the Rocheleau Wing with our Museum passes. Navigated our way back down under the Pyramid where all the services and access to the 3 major wings are. Rented audio guides and borrowed a wheelchair. First off to the Medieval wing, which they discovered when they were excavating for the new entry and visitors center. Back through the visitors center to the Denon wing for early large format french paintings. J-L David, whom mom had just been watching a DVD about was all over the place. Very prolific and producer of some of the greatest classic 19th century paintings, especially large format. The Mona Lisa is now out of that little room they had her hidden in and in a grand salon with all sorts of guards, and barriers. I don't know how some of the people even saw her with the crowds. W/ Mom in wheel chair I wheeled her right up to it in front of all the barriers and crowd. time for an early lunch.

Monday

Fed up with room, mold in bathroom, no AC, window open = flys during day, mosqetos @ night. After breakfast, changed rooms. Delayed us but worth it. Bad weather forecast this PM, so to Louvre. Bus connections OK since they are back on a weekday schedule. Mom really loved the Louvre, spent 7 hours there, back to hotel for a rest. wrote some of this while Mom napped. Out to restaurant close to hotel for more local food, good. Fadeing fast, off to bed.

Sunday PM

After mass there was an announcement in 3 languages that this was Heritage day with demonstrations at all cathedrals on the arts that went into building them Sant Sulpice was started in 1638 and took 130 years to build. there were stone cutters showing their skills in the court yard out side. After a little observation we walked to Jardine d' Luxembourg a block and a half away. We were looking for runch in the outdoor afe, but the lien was long and you got to it throught he Museum. looked like too much work. Wandered the park a little and ended up walking down the street to a bistro for Quiche and Creps. Had to walk off to St Michel to try to get a bus to Montmarte.A night mare ensued with missed busses, buslines closed for Sunday, Montmartobus drivers telling us our pass was no good, all trying to get to the Funicular to try to get to the top to Sacre Couer. Turns out the Funicular is not the best way at all. The Montmarto bus runs up and down the hills from Pigalle to Montmarte. Once we were up the Funicular we had to walk up the steps to SC. Once inside we got to observe the ceremony to retire the host for the night. After which we we walked the cathederal and back to the streets. Walked arounf the corner into the square previosly inhabited by all the classic artists, Talouse le' Treck, Monet, Degan et.al. Of all places we stopped at the Irishpub for a sandwich and beer. Found the Montmartro bus for the ride down the hills, at a very fdast speed to Pigalle. Found the 95 bus back to St Germaine des pres, where we found the 63 Bus (one of our favorites) back to our hotel. Time for a nap. After which it was off to one of the nice little bistros near our hotel for some authentic french street food. Mom had a salad w/ chicken, corn, etc, I had a tough piece of beef and a beer. Off to bed to try to get our body clocks a little more paresian.

Sunday Mass

Sunday AM we got up @ 09:15 Wow, did we sleep. Scurried about and though we had decided to attend the 10:15 Mass @ St. Sulpice we thought it was too late. After a short continental breakfast of coffee, Creusant, etc. we decided the 1015 was a better choice than Plan B, Sacre Coure, Montmarte. We hopped the right bus, which just happened to be running and were dropped off right next door to the catherdar. The 10:5 indicated the start of the world clas Organ (one of the largest in the world) music. Mass started @ 10:30,o we were in plenty of time. Very nice mass by a japanese priest, in french. Very much like ours in the US, so we participated in english, or was that american.

Saturday PM

Up @ 17:00 and ready for (or at least more ready than when we arrived) Paris. Plan is to take a bus to the Pantheon for a short visit. Got there, looking for the entrance, following the signs and they suddenly turn adound. That closed gate we passer was the entree. The stop admitting a half hour before closing. Walked a bit to find a bus to the Latin Quarter, stopped for a sketch book for guess who. Got to Blvd Sani Michel and started to look for the restaurants Katie, Chris & I visited in 2004. Couls not find them (lots of Japanese restaurants that were not here last trip) so we wandered down to Brassarie Balzar, an old staple going back to the 20's. Nice meal of Veal and Lamb. After dinner, caught a bus across the street towards the Seine and the heart of the Latin Quarter. Found the Restaurant St Emellion in which I have eaten at least 3 times. Maybe we will get back there before we leave. Enjoyed the entertainment, (mimes, break dancing competitions) stopped at my favorite mid-eastern confectionari for some treats. Time to get back to the hotel and the busses were all amuck. Ended up riding back on the RER C train which went right along the Seine to Gare De Auslitz. The problem was walking down the steps to it and back up @ the oter end. Steps are a no-no.Off to bed for the first night in our micro hotel room.

Saturday Am

Arrived in Paris on time, our ride to the hotel found us within 30 minutes as promised. A hairraising (for those of us who have some) ride through the highways and by ways and streets of Paris.He popped out of te maze right at our hotel. The dread I felt on the ride in materialized at the hotel. As I expected, check in time was 14:00. We were standing at the desk @ 09:00 with our bags and already dragging. It was 1:00 AM our body clock time. Nothing to do but make the best of it. Walked to Le Gardine de Plantes, spitting distance from our hotel. Saturday AM, lots of joggers and otherwise quiet. Decided to see a little of the town so walked across the steet to the # 24 bus. Wold need to ride this later on the trip to Giverny.It goes along the Seine, over Pont Neuf and on past the Opera to Gare Sant Lazare. Rode it back to Pont Neuf, got off to eat in one of the Cafes in the little triangle park @ the west end of Isl de Cite. Afte a walk through a little art gallery,like so many we have visited in the states, we got back on the bus and to the Hotel. It was only noon but our room was ready and they let us in. Time for a nap.

Friday PM

Arrived @ Newark Airport after circumnavigating an accident that closed Rt 24 East. Having the boarding passes before we left home helped expedite check-in. A taste of Paris before we even left @ Le Petit Bistro. Actually ended up getting a wrap and sandwich in the food court. Boarded on time but, as usual in Newark, sat on the taxiway and burned up our favorable tail winds. Nice entertainment system @ our seats made sleep impractical. Otherwise a smooth flight into Paris @ 7:40 AM Sat 15-9-2007. Pictures are not working well right now, will try later.

Thursday, September 13. Leaving tomorrow afternoon with Mom for her first trip to Gai Paris'. Have all the reservations, seats, Museum Passes, Metro etc. Pass, and even the ride from the Airport to the Hotel. Since I am bringing a notebook we will see how practicle it is to keep this blog up to date from Paris.

Bon Voyage